A Christmas Miracle & Other Sundry Observances

Many of you enjoyed N’s irate rant against the banking system. When he last reported on our banking situation, our account had been kicked back into unverified status because I’d been officially added to the joint account (only after 3 months of intermittent attempts). We therefore couldn’t complete any wire transfers and other regular banking tasks. Well, just when we thought our banking situation couldn’t get any worse, we experienced a true Christmas miracle. We went to the bank on Sat. to manually request a wire transfer of rent to our landlord. The banker (not our normal inefficient, garrulous, can-never-do-two-things-at-once banker, but a weekend substitute) informed us that not only was our account verified and able to handle electronic wire transfers from the Internet, but also that our new checks and my ATM card had arrived. What’s going on? We can actually handle multiple banking tasks on one visit? Our job is not to truly question this miraculous efficiency, but rather bask in it…and of course, to not get too used to the feeling.

Otherwise the city has become relatively quiet. We’ve had an easier time getting seated at restaurants, waited on a miniscule line at Centre Pompidou to see the Giacometti exhibit (très cool), and have observed a pervasive tranquility about town. Except on the Champs-Élysées the other night, where we went to check out the famous holiday light displays. It was booming with activity (both tourists and locals), but it was well worth navigating through the throngs to see the sparkles and streaks of luminescence in the four rows of trees lining the grand boulevard. While there, we strolled by what must be the flagship Louis Vuitton store—four stories high, with signature bags upon bags bedecking the window displays, and an enormous LV logo in garish lights at the very top of the building. There was a waiting line to get in, complete with velvet rope, but the store was kind enough to put heating lamps outside to warm those who braved the cold just to get in. (Can we say, SUCKAS?!)

Today people are running around crazed, doing their last-minute shopping. I waited on the longest line ever at the bakery this morning, just to get some bread (and not mountains of baked goods for Christmas dinner). However, it wasn’t so terrible waiting for 15 minutes, as I got to ogle the gorgeous bouchettes de Noël (miniature log-shaped Christmas cakes) that our bakery had decked out with all kinds of adorable accoutrements, some edible (candy tuille, chocolate shavings, cassis berries and other fruits, marzipan, mini-macarons) and some inedible but absolutely precious (miniature wrapped gifts, Xmas trees, mistletoe, and elves). It may sound tacky, but believe me when the French go OTT (over the top) with pastries, it is always to absolutely, flawlessly tasteful effect. They are such works of art that one almost doesn’t want to eat them.

And although we don’t technically celebrate Christmas, I got a pretty darn fabulous Xmas present this year: a vendor lavished a generous gift certificate to the Four Seasons George V spa upon N and he in turn gave it to me. Oh yeah!! I’ll be spending Christmas getting a massage and enjoying their sauna and hammam, followed by some cozy time chez nous, a delicious home-cooked dinner, and Bordeaux. Then we jet off to Cali for a few days to reconnect with our old home and dear friends.

And with that, L’Étrangère is on hiatus until the New Year. Happy holidays and wishing you a marvelous ’08.